Sparta
Before the new national road that links Mycenae and Tripoli, and thence Sparta, was finished (a safe but comparatively dull ride), the best route from most spots in the Argive plain was through the Kleisoura Pass. The spectacular views may still make it worth your while if you are riding with someone else (drivers unfortunately do not get a chance to enjoy the views!). If you are on a bus, you will probably venture back up near Nemea and come down the new highway, which does offer relatively unspoiled countryside views.
The modern town of Sparta is a little south of the ancient one, of which there is very little remaining. It sits in the plain of the River Eurotas between the towering peaks of Mount Taygetos and the ravine etched hills of the Menelaion. It was described by Strabo in the late 1st century B.C.E. as "a rather hollow district," but it is the comment by Thucydides that is most often remembered:
For I suppose if Lacedaemon were to become desolate, and the temples and the foundations of the public buildings were left, that as time went on there would be a strong disposition with posterity to refuse to accept her fame as a true exponent of her power. And yet they occupy two-fifths of Peloponnese and lead the whole, not to speak of their numerous allies without. Still, as the city is neither built in a compact form nor adorned with magnificent temples and public edifices, but composed of villages after the old fashion of Hellas, there would be an impression of inadequacy. Whereas, if Athens were to suffer the same misfortune, I suppose that any inference from the appearance presented to the eye would make her power to have been twice as great as it is.
The Ancient Sites
If you have just arrived in town, I suggest visiting the archaeological museum before you walk to the remains of the acropolis. As Thucydides mentioned, there is not an overwhelming amount of architectural remains on the site, but some of the finest pieces are now on display at the museum, and you will probably have a better idea of the local Spartan uniqueness if you spend an hour or so at the museum first. It made my visit to the actual site more enjoyable and more imaginative (if you will permit me to wax romantic here!).
On my first visit I did not have time to stop by the archaeological museum of Sparta, but it is home to a number of very important archaeological finds. Possibly the most spectacular of these are the choicest of the tens of thousands of bronze archaic figurines dedicated to the goddess Artemis Orthia. There are a number of other votive objects and a few surprising terra-cotta masks. There is a well known bust of Leonidas in marble and a number of stelae. If you enjoy bronze age pottery there is a collection of Mycenaean finds from multiple sites across Laconia and even some attractive mosaics.
The main archaeological site in town is the Acropolis of Sparta (on the bus in, after passing over the Eurotas River, you will veer to the left and then back to the right, thereby avoiding the edge of the Acropolis). You can walk there from the middle of town by going towards the football stadium on the north of town (just a few blocks north of the central plaza) and then going around it, up a beautiful tree lined road. Walls once surrounded the acropolis (the highest of a series of low hills north of the town), but only after the Spartans had lost their hold on the Peloponnese. During the Peloponnesian War they had nothing to fear from the Athenians on land. There are many olive trees covering the acropolis, but you can still get a good view of the Roman theater (first century B.C.E.). It was actually the second largest theater in all of Greece (after Megalopolis), but it is not in a good condition today. Most of the marble has been robbed out. If you do visit, note the drawings of the ancient stage in the Blue Guide (one theory on the design of the stage), the skene would be decorated and rolled on metal rods out of a shed adjacent to the theater. Other foundations and remnants of Classical, Roman, and Byzantine buildings remain on the acropolis, but you will need a site plan to point out exactly what is what. Look up some of the books provided in the bibliography below or some of the archaeological excavation reports and make a photocopy of the site plan. You will appreciate it much more when you are standing on the acropolis, wondering what this building and that foundation were!
If you are interested in a longer description of the site, Pausanias gave a good description. The other major archaeological site in Sparta is the Sanctuary of Artemis Orthia, a famous sanctuary that has been preserved by the silt of the Eurotas River. It sits a little further away from the center of town, but definitely within walking distance. If you just follow the main road that brought you in to town, Odos Tripoleos, you will see the signs pointing you down a small road to the right (as you are leaving town). It is only about one kilometer from the town's central plateia. The sanctuary itself is visible through the chain link fence that surrounds it, but I think during the morning and early afternoons the gate is opened and you can go inside. Most of what is visible today are the remains of the Roman theater that was built at the site during the second century C.E. But the remnants of the Temple of Artemis Orthia are still visible (though it also had several different stages).
The sanctuary was formed at some point before the 10th century B.C.E. and a long altar was the site of sacrifices to the goddess, probably of young men hoping for victory or celebrating victory in contests for the goddess. This developed at some point into a brutal contest young Spartan boys participated in. The winner of the contest was the one who could endure flogging the longest. Needless to say many boys died as a result of the contests and the ones that won were highly honored. The Romans later, enamored by the resemblance of Spartan customs to their own militaristic and, for lack of a better word, "Spartan" mores, constructed a theater around the central area in front of the temple (with the temple and its altar serving as a stage for the very real show). Twisted? Maybe. But then again, Ice Hockey is popular today, is it not?
During my second visit to Sparta, I was able to enter the sanctuary of Artemis Orthia and listen to a presentation by Rosaria Munson, whom I would like to especially thank for her preparation and effort. This is particularly so because during the middle of her presentation on the site, a band of little gypsy children began to take interest in our lecture. A few young boys, about 6-10 years old, began to try and divert our attention by first walking then marching between us and Rosaria, then shouting and screaming, ultimately running around us, waving their shirts and screaming in a heroic effort to get us to look at them! We finally left, only barely before some of our group members would have surely throttled some of the older ones and gotten us into a whole heap of trouble! Thanks again Rosaria for one of the most memorable lectures of my entire summer and for handling the situation like a professional!
If you are interested, I have been told you can find most of the course of the city walls, which were only needed after the ancient city began its decline, but I would rather urge a trip outside of town to either Amyclae or the Menelaion as a way to better spend an extra morning or afternoon in Sparta. Other archaeological sites in town are the Altar of Lycurgus and the Heroon on the Eurotas, both north of the sanctuary of Artemis Orthia. You can also make a good photo of the large statue of Leonidas (modern) just south of the football stadium.
The Modern Town
The modern town was established only in 1834 and today it is home to about 11,000 people. It is a major Peloponnesian hub for traffic to the south and east, but other cities like Kalamata and Patras are more important in commerce. The town is notable for its wide boulevard and the almost ubiquitous view of the spectacular Taygetos Mountains. The Plateia Kendriki, the town's central plaza, is surrounded by restaurants and public buildings. The town hall is the most obvious and dominates the western side of the square. We really enjoyed our dinner at one of the side restaurants, watching the sun set over the mountains (it does so earlier than you might think!) and the children playing football on the square.
There are a few older churches to visit if you desire, the cathedral is on the western side of town, but within walking distance. Most other necessities are found near the plaza and the museum (OTE, Post Office, KTEL, and bus stations). If you are taking a bus on to Mistras from Sparta, you will have to walk from the main bus station, NE of the plaza, to the Mistras bus station, a couple of blocks west of the plaza. Not a bad walk though.
As for lodging, on my first visit, I did not stay the night, but on my second trip I stayed in luxury! The Hotel Menelaion dominates the main boulevard and was one of the nicest places I stayed our whole trip (it had AC!). There was a nice pool and courteous staff. I do not have any idea about the price though. Probably upwards of US$65 a night looking at a guide book from last year. The Cecil and Maniatis are both recommended by the Rough Guide as being relatively reasonable and with decent facilities.